This expedition was a highlight of my recent travels, a three-week journey from the vibrant streets of Buenos Aires, Argentina, to the ancient wonders of Lima, Peru. The experience was a core part of my time abroad, offering a chance to explore a variety of stunning landscapes and rich cultures.
The journey began in Buenos Aires, where I had some time to explore before the tour officially started. I had been to the city before and was happy to return, arranging some tours to a ranch in the Pampas to experience Gaucho culture and enjoy some Argentine barbecue, and a trip by ferry to Colonia, Uruguay. I also made a point of trying the great Argentine beef at two steakhouses, Michelin-starred Don Julio, and La Brigada, where steaks are famously cut with a spoon to demonstrate their tenderness.
The official tour commenced, and we flew north to Tucuman, beginning our journey to Cafayate in the northern wine region. The drive was scenic, and we visited several significant sites along the way, including the open-air Menhires Archaeological Reserve to see 2,000-year-old megaliths, the Pachamama (Mother Earth) Museum, and the ruins of the old Quilmes culture stronghold. In Cafayate, we spent two nights, visiting the excellent Wine Museum, participating in a wine tasting, and having lunch at another winery. We also visited a pisco distillery and enjoyed some local cuisine, including llama tartar.
Next, we traveled to Salta. The drive was breathtaking, passing through the Las Conchas Valley with its colorful canyons and cacti. We saw more than a dozen Andean Condors circling high above us, a very satisfying and exciting sight. From Salta, we took an early morning drive to San Antonio de las Cobres for a ride on the famous Train to the Clouds (Tren a las Nubes), which brought us up to almost 14,000 feet. The landscape shifted from cloudy and foggy to a sunny high desert.
For the next two days, we made our way to the Bolivian border, with an overnight stay in Tilcara. The landscape was often populated by llamas and wild vicuñas. After crossing the border into Villazon, we boarded a single-car train to Tupiza. In the morning, we drove to Uyuni, the gathering point for tours into the Uyuni Salt Flats, a natural wonder and the largest salt flat in the world.
We had a day to explore the flats, driving in 4x4s through the mirror-like water, visiting salt monuments, and enjoying a picnic on the dry salt. We ended the day back in the shallow water to watch the sun set, its reflection creating a perfect mirror effect.
By the time we reached Bolivia, we had gradually passed the 10,000-foot elevation mark, which helped with acclimation. However, flying from Uyuni to La Paz, we found ourselves at over 14,000 feet, which was a noticeable change. La Paz is a fascinating city located in a steep bowl. We took a walking tour through the city center and the Witches Market, and the following day we visited the Valley of the Moon and rode the Teleferico, a system of cable cars that provided a unique and efficient way to see the city from above.
Our journey continued by bus to Copacabana, Bolivia, and Lake Titicaca, a body of water I had long wanted to see. We took a boat to the Island of the Sun, saw Inca ruins, and enjoyed a lovely lunch. From there, we drove to Puno, Peru, for another night by the lake before boarding a train to Cuzco. The train ride was pleasant and picturesque, lifting us one last time over the 14,000-foot mark before descending to Cuzco at 12,000 feet.
In Cuzco, we spent three full days exploring. We toured the Sacred Valley of the Incas, stopping at a weaving cooperative in Chinchero to see traditional Andean weaving techniques, visiting the amphitheater-like agricultural site of Moray, and seeing the Maras Salt Ponds.
The next day was dedicated to a visit to Machu Picchu. We took a bus and a train to reach the site. While there, the weather was challenging, but the experience was still a culmination of a long-term travel goal. Our return to Cuzco was on the opulent Hiram Bingham Train, a memorable experience with live music and excellent service. Our final day in Cuzco was spent on a city tour, visiting the Mercado, Cathedral, and surrounding Inca ruins.
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Early the next morning, we flew to Lima for our last day as a tour group. We had lunch at the Larco Museum, followed by a tour of its outstanding collection of pre-Columbian Peruvian art. Our journey as a group ended, but I had a few more days to explore on my own. I took a three-day tour that included a boat ride to the Ballestas Islands to see Humboldt penguins and other birds, a tour of the Paracas National Reserve, and a flight over the ancient Nazca lines, a long-held bucket list item. While it took work to distinguish the figures, I was satisfied with the experience, especially seeing the hummingbird, condor, and monkey.
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After a long bus ride back to Lima, I spent a few more days relaxing and exploring, including a food tour of the artsy Barranco neighborhood. It had been a long, but incredibly worthwhile trip, filled with unique experiences and beautiful landscapes, from the vibrant culture of Buenos Aires to the ancient history of Lima and the High Andes in between.
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